Filaggrin production by cultured human epidermal keratinocytes and its regulation by retinoic acid.

Filaggrin is a basic protein normally present in the stratum corneum of epidermis. It derives from a high-molecular-weight precursor synthesized in the stratum granulosum of epidermis. This precursor, called profilaggrin, is thought to be associated with the keratohyaline granules of granular cells. It is known that profilaggrin, but not filaggrin, is present in conventional cultures of human keratinocytes grown on plastic petri dishes. In this study, we show that cultured human keratinocytes can convert profilaggrin into filaggrin, when they are grown on a collagen matrix and raised at the liquid-air interface in order to induce terminal differentiation. Moreover, the presence of terminally differentiating keratinocytes above the granular layer is necessary, but not sufficient, for the accumulation of filaggrin. Finally, we show that the accumulation of filaggrin in the outermost layers of submerged cultured human keratinocytes can be triggered by extensive removal (double delipidization) of retinoids from the serum supplement and inhibited when small concentrations (10(-11)-10(-10) M) of retinoic acid are readded to the culture medium. Altogether, the data reported suggest that not only the synthesis of profilaggrin, but also the conversion of profilaggrin into filaggrin are negatively controlled by retinoic acid. Further, it seems that retinoic acid acts directly on the conversion of profilaggrin into filaggrin rather than on the production of terminally differentiating cells capable of accumulating this protein.